Please note

The information below is limited. For all details please sign in via the member log-in screen if your are a member, else please contact the MCSA Magaliesberg Section.

The MCSA as a land owner seeks to preserve the land in its natural state, therefore none of our properties have clearly indicated paths, nor are there any facilities on our properties.

Bring your own water, as you don’t want to drink the river water.

Brief summary of venue

Wilgepoort is a climbing area just an hours drive from Pretoria, which was discovered in 1966 and subsequently developed. The crag itself is in the picturesque Gouwsberg Valley on the banks of the Wilge River. Whilst appearing to be quite a small crag, it surprises one by having a significant number of high-quality lines of up to 4 solid pitches. The crag is North facing and gets very hot in Summer, making it an excellent Winter crag. The south facing crag has been developed with a few excellent sport climbing lines. The property is now owned by MCSA being purchased in 2013.

Wilgepoort is also an excellent hiking venue with steep uphill walking and fun scrambling.

Some Deep Water Soloing is also available at the big pool close to the climbing crags.

Permit & permission information

MCSA-owned property.  Non MCSA members must obtain a permit from the MCSA Magaliesberg Section. All visitors must carry a copy of the permit.

No permits are issued to non-members for the first full weekend of a month, as we reserve that weekend for MCSA members and their guests only.

MCSA members do not need permits. One member one guest rule applies. Members must carry their membership cards with them.

The gate code is available from the MCSA Magaliesberg Administrator. Please see the FAQ: Permit Rules.

Access rules apply and must be adhered to. The rules are available on request from the MCSA Magaliesberg Section and will be provided with your access permit.

A breach of these rules (etiquette, gate times, etc.) could result in the MCSA permanently losing this convenient access route to its properties. The MCSA will also not hesitate to take action against offending members or permit holders.

Join the club here.

Approximate travelling time from Pretoria

Travelling takes about 1 hour 15 mins.

Accommodation & facilities

Car camping in the bush. At night, in winter, it can get quite cold, so a warm sleeping bag is necessary. Long drop at campsite. Please note field toilet manners apply, see the FAQ: What are ‘Field toilet manners?’.

No camping in the kloof please.

Bring your own water, as you don’t want to drink the river water.

Climbing information

The rock comprises weathered Waterberg sedimentary rock of excellent quality. There are about 40 traditional routes ranging between grades 14 to 24 and consisting of 3-5 pitches in length. Most routes follow cracks, open books, grooves and chimneys, a standard trad rack, supplemented by additional camming devices is usually sufficient. There are some routes which feature bolts and pegs, however no route is entirely protected in this way so be prepared to place gear. The crag is North facing, so in full sun, making it an ideal Winter climbing venue. There is some loose rock at the top of some routes, so wear a helmet. Descents involve abseiling if climbing on the right or walking off if climbing on the left. Note: Climbing is not allowed on the separate Western crag (known as The Pillar of Eros and situated 800 metres upstream of the Main crag) during the Black Eagle nesting season (April to Mid- November). At present, there are no sports routes though this is being considered along with slackline anchors near the waterfall. Any bolted routes must be in addition to, and in a separate area from the existing trad routes.

Please take note of eagle activity at the crags on the website home page, as well on the eagle board at the gate entrance.

Child friendly

Yes. Children are only allowed with adult supervision.

Swimming

Although the river water is unsuitable for drinking, a dip in the river or the big pool close to the campsite is most refreshing. Just don’t swallow.

Camp fires

Yes, at the campsite in the designated fire places only; please bring your own wood.

Our entomologists have let us know that the wood beetle occurs generally in the Johannesburg area, but not in Pretoria. Members & visitors coming from Johannesburg are asked to use up all the firewood, or take what was not used back home with you.

Other attractions

The crags are located in an area of wild, African scenic beauty; it is not uncommon to see a pair of Black Eagles, the resident Gymnogene, Giant Kingfishers and otters fishing in the Big Pool. There is scope for some good hiking up the Wilge River and behind the crag. Alternatively, one can just relax beside the river with a book. Fantastic opportunities for photographers and artists.

Dangers

No security issues to date. Wilgepoort is known for rock falls – wear a helmet, take care and climb with a cell phone. Hippo has been seen in the pool near the campsite. Please bring your own water as river water is not suitable for consumption.

There are a lot of ticks at Wilgepoort, bring some repellent.

Contacts

MCSA Magaliesberg Section

Email: admin@mag.mcsa.org.za

Contact: 083 845 1573

Office hours: Mon – Fri 08h00 – 10h00; closed on weekends & public holidays

Disclaimer

Mountaineering (climbing and hiking) is de facto an activity which carries certain inherent risks. Neither the MCSA, nor any of its members or representatives accept responsibility for any deaths, injury or illness sustained or suffered by any person or for any theft, loss or damage to any property that result from participation in MCSA activities, no matter in what manner caused and whether allegedly due to negligence or not. Full indemnity is available here.